amber/phenolic resin beads and fibulae - a discussion
Re: Another Request for Info - Chain / Bead / Fibula from Morocco? -- Rosanna Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: karavanserai Mail author
05/03/2015, 12:46:45

Martine and Ward -
Thank you so much! I had no idea about any of this. You are right, the designs can look the same but there are subtle differences.

Your pieces look like high grade silver to me, just from the sheen they have. My fibula is definitely not high in silver content, and is poorly finished on the back. It could be made of brass as well. But, I suppose it just means that it is a lower-grade product for the low-end market.

Do you think that someone removed the other fibula and attached the chain to the remaining fibula to make it into a necklace? I can't see how my necklace could be used in it's present form to fasten a garment. But, maybe you have seen this configuration before.

Thanks again!
Rosanna
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Hello Rosanna,
Glad you appreciate it. I am afraid you will regret asking questions. Once I’m started I sometimes can’t stop. ;-)

Yes these are high grade silver and some are quite old and have consequently a very nice patina and feel. But there are some beauties even in iron!
There is a market for any quality level.
Some silversmiths had a well-spread reputation fort their quality and detail of work. In the high days most of these were of Jewish origin until in the 60’s a vast majority moved to Israel.

I don’t know if you have been to Morocco, but the amount of jewels and fibulae you still find now is still astonishing. The first days I always ‘freeze’ because it is too much: you have to find the needle in the hay stack.
What is more difficult is to find high quality pieces and authentic designs: the right combination of fibulae, chain and decorative additional elements. You easily find separate fibulae . I guess chains broke easily and who knows when money was needed chains and the small elements were first up for sale… I have seen older pictures where women were wearing their fibulae without chains.
Then there are also fibulae who never were designed to have a chain (I’ ll add some pictures)

What you will find in many shops are ‘assemblages ‘ of fibulae from eg the North with some silver elements from the East and a chain from the South. These assemblages are often more opulent than the original ones. They sometimes use elements that come – may be from the right area- but from necklaces, or head ornaments. - Most Morocan sellers don’t really care/mind, most don’t have the detailed knowledge. So you have to know the different techniques and designs of the separate elements used in specific areas/ groups to be able to judge whether the whole is an authentic combination. The pictures I sent you in the previous mail with similar basic shape of fibulae but all coming from different tribal groups with each their specificity are good examples of how tricky it gets.

We are lucky that one of our good friends is a living encyclopedia when it comes to Morroccan silver jewelry. Even people knowing it quite well – publishing books- still make blatant mistakes….

But coming to your find: to me it is very unlikely that the phenolic bead belonged to a fibulae ensemble.I have never seen- in real nor in publications- amber as part of an authentic fibulae ensemble . Amber and resins are in necklaces, head and hair ornaments, ear rings and - ornaments.
What you do find along with fibulae depending on the area are silver decorative pieces- some with enamel-, old coins, red glass beads, small red coral beads, silver dangles and towards the South-east and South-West of Algeria even shell (I’ll add a picture)
Your chain looks like a typical chain used to attach fibulae., but you just miss the 2nd fibuale. My conclusion is that it has been assembled to make it more appealing in order to sell.

I’m going to add some examples of complete and authentic sets of fibulae Ward accumulated over the years. You’ll see how divers fibulae can be.
Sorry if this all was known information to you.

pic 1: designed without chain :Zehroun, Mid-Atlas, Morocco

pic 2 :designed without chain: Zaiane, mid-Atlas, Morocco

Group2a.jpg (47.7 KB)  Group2b.jpg (30.5 KB)  
martine

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